Tag Archives: travel

Sweden – Vikarbyn & Stockholm

Typical Homes in Vikarbyn, Sweden

One of the first things we noticed on our bus ride from Lillehammer to Vikarbyn was that in Sweden 90% of the houses are this wood and most are painted this particular red/brown color. Our guide Gundega explained to us that this color and type of house has always been considered high status. Most people don’t want to have a different look although there were always a few rebels that built some other style or painted their home a radical color: gray, white or even blue.

On our way east from Lillehammer the bus driver pulled into a parking lot that seemed to be not any place special. We were there to admire the world’s tallest laminated wood building. (18 stories/ 280ft.) Later we stopped for snacks at a Circle K service station. I never imagined Circle K was international. Final stop on our way to Vikarbyn was the Dala wooden horse factory. No horses were being carved because it was Sunday but the gift shop is always open.

The bus ride was several hours. The northern forests of Norway and Sweden looked managed by which I mean, the trees were usually about the same size and spaced apart with little undergrowth. I was disappointed. I was expecting a fairy tale forest.

We finally arrived at our Bed & Breakfast in Vikarbyn mid-afternoon. We had the option of going for a walk to explore town, but first it was time for Fika. It had been explained to us that in Sweden it is your right, in fact you must, have a coffee break. We made pot of coffee and tea in our common kitchen. We sat in the sun on our B&B balcony with a view of Lake Siljan in the distance.

The owners of the B & B cooked our dinner the 2 nights we were there. We weren’t expecting much because days before Gundega informed us that the Swedes are champions in recycling. Nothing is wasted. Then she reminded us to order and pay for our dinners in Vikarbyn. via text message. Someone asked: “What will we have for dinner?” Gundega said “There was no way to know what our dinner will be ahead of time.” Our thrifty hostess would- make our dinner out of “whatever leftovers were available.” The dinners were quite good.

The following day we were to be loaded into vans and driven around the surrounding rural area known as Dalarna to see the sites. It didn’t sound very exciting but our other choice would have been to hang around Vikarbyn on a cool, cloudy day.

Our tour led by two young local lady guides/van drivers, was surprisingly interesting and fun. Most unbelievable to me was one Dalhalla a quarry that has been turned into an huge international music venue. Unfortunately we could only look down through the fence. Popular musicians you’ve heard of fill the arena in this remote spot.

Along the way we saw several Maypoles in parks and towns used for Midsummer celebrations. We spent quite a bit of time at the historic Rattvik Church located at one end of Lake Siljan. Before there were roads parishioners rowed boats to church. Other families came long distances on horseback and slept in cabins with their horses.

Gustav Vasa leader of the Swedish revolution against Denmark organized rebels and hid out in this area. There is a beautiful memorial column near the church dedicated to Vasa and the Swedish revolutionaries who fought with him.

We ate lunch in a large remote park that was once a quarry and mining area. There were displays identifying plants, a beautiful quarry lake, and a picnic area.

Our tour did end in a gift shop. We returned to our B & B where we had a chance to do our laundry and go to the grocery to buy snacks for our trip to Stockholm.

After our breakfast buffet we were driven in vans to the bus station, there we took a local bus which once stopped to let someone off at his driveway. The bus trip reminded me of riding the school bus only our Swedish bus was more comfortable. Our last bus stop was a small train station. From there we took the train to Stockholm then we all boarded a city bus to our hotel. Whew!

It was mid-afternoon so again after we all checked in at our hotel it was time for Fika. Our group sat outside on the busy pedestrian street Drottninggatan and people watched. Gundega suggested we identify which people were tourists. The tourists quite outnumbered the native Stockholmers. We identified them by their backpacks and/or they stopped to consult maps or phones. After our coffee we had a whirlwind walking tour Stockholm’s castle district, old town, and ferry dock.

The following day our group took the ferry to the Vasa Museum. The history of this special Swedish war ship which sank near the harbor in 1628 shortly after launch, and its careful recovery and restoration beginning in 1961, is amazing.

Fantastic sculptures decorate the ship some designed to frighten enemy others to entertain the sailors

We spent the rest of our day in the nearby Nordiska Museet. The museum explained 500 years of Nordic Life got us hooked. There were kiosks with showing short films with actors reading from letters or diaries of ordinary people. Some of them were very moving. Also there were objects and tools of everyday life in displayed. The stories and displays on early Sami indiginous culture and the culture clashes that came with the arrival of Christian Scandinavians from the south were especially memorable.

The folk history was what we came to see but it’s a huge museum. We ended up seeing a collections of china and table settings from the 1600’s to 1950. A table set as it was when Queen Elizabeth visited and the evolution of utensils for eating. We couldn’t not explore the reconstructed “typical Swedish 1947 apartment” Compact but comfortable. I took some pictures but the website above is much better.

These were not things we planned to see but …. We tried to do it all. We took a tram off the island and then decided to walk to the hotel from the central station. We were exhausted.

Last Day Stockholm

Our boat to Helsinki left in the afternoon. It was sunny and we decided we wanted to spend most of the time outside. Dennis planned a walk to a couple of parks and then if we had time end up at the Culture House which has a theater, exhibits, several libraries and one or two restaurants every floor.

We saw several people heading into a church so we went in to. It was pretty nice.

View from the Culture House and maybe an interesting photography exhibit.

Scandinavian Surprises

Lucky for us most Scandinavians have a pretty good grasp of English but as tourists on a tour we didn’t converse with any Scandinavians in any deep or meaningful way. We did have a number of surprises; some cultural, others quirky, or just interesting to us.

We saw very few Starbucks or McDonalds in Scandinavia. They have their own coffee and burger chains. However both these repurposed buildings were located in the touristy area across from the docks in Bergen, Norway

Fashion- Same as here? I’m not the right person to ask.

It seems that every high end fashion designer seen in NYC also has a store in Oslo. This pre-frayed sweatshirt featured in the Prada window caught Dennis’ attention. I added the arrow so you wouldn’t miss the frayed edge. I observed only a few people wearing the: ripped jeans pants style. If designers are counting on the ripped jeans wearers to buy the frayed sweatshirt, I don’t think it will be a success.

The sales woman is staring at us taking the picture. We didn’t have the nerve to go in and ask the price.

In Helsinki, our tour guide Grundega, pointed out Marimekko, a store she assumed we knew was famous for Finnish fashion. From the window clothes were much more creative than the Prada gray frayed sweatshirt. Still not anything I need to add to my closet. I envisioned bringing my daughter and niece Finnish designer clothing. Then I realized I had no idea as to their taste or size. Very expensive and definitely not returnable.

Stockholm certainly had its share of strange and and to me, unique shops. At first glance I naively assumed the clothes I saw in this 1st picture were Halloween costumes. I was told that this is a store for Goth clothing. Demonia is a brand of Goth shoes. I don’t think Goth shoes are a thing in Spokane.

Norwegian Cows (& Bulls)

We saw these cute very friendly cows and bulls grazing on our walk in Flam, Norway. I learned they are Highland cattle. Both the cows and bulls have horns.

Highland Cattle

I never thought we’d meet a Viking King

After our day exploring the Norwegian town of Flam we took a bus back to Gudvangen. We decided to explore the Viking Village. Our Viking guide took us to a cabin to meet the Viking King. He was a man of very few or no words but he seemed to enjoy his job which was sitting on his rustic throne while tourist took pictures.

Dala Horses

When in Sweden you can’t miss the Dala Horses. They are every color and EVERYWHERE. They claim to be hand carved although we saw a machine carving them in the factory. I was told that the craftsmen have Sunday off and the tourist need to see some carving. Our guide assured me the craftsman are not being replaced by an AI programmed machine The machine took several minutes to produce one horse. The process still requires the horse to be sanded and painted. This is still done by hand.

We saw one of two horse carving factories. Looking at the bins and shelves full of horses I found it hard to believe there isn’t an over supply. According to the Swedes consumer demand for Dala horses incredible.

It must be true because the smallest, least expensive horse, suitable only to fit in a very small lego barn, cost about $25. I hope my granddaughters will construct a suitable structure for their valuable ponies.

Cruise Ship & Boats

I didn’t realize the importance of ferrys, cruise ships, and maritime trade in Scandinavia. Our 2019 trip to Norway was x-country skiing on the Pier Gynt Trail all inland. My vision of Scandinavia was snow, frozen lakes and in lush rural settings as seen in Ingmar Bergman films. I now understand the importance of fjords, the Baltic Sea, maritime trade and tourism in the Scandinavian countries.

I discovered Stockholm is a bunch of islands you can take ferrys to get around. We boarded a huge cruise ship for our overnight trip on the Baltic from Stockholm to Helsinki. I didn’t love my first cruise ship experience.

City Park Surprises

When we don’t end up spending our whole day in a museum we love to explore city parks. Helsinki and Stockholm both had some surprises.

One of these playgrounds had about 18 lockers with toys for check-out: a frisbee, ball, jump rope, board games etc. FREE but you must use an app on your cellphone to borrow the toys.

We got used to the idea of eating Reindeer

We tried reindeer stew which is on almost every Scandinavian menu and tastes like stew. Our last night in Helsinki we had a cranberry, reindeer sausage, pizza for dinner.

Strange things didn’t end. We saw these creatures in the Helsinki airport as we were headed home.

Bergen and Lillehammer in brief

Bergen is beautiful and very busy when it isn’t raining. Our guide Gundega promised it would rain in Bergen and it did, about half the time we were there. We looked around the old town in the sunshine but when it was our time to take the funicular up to Mt. Floyen it looked like this.

In spite of the fog most of our group followed Gundega on a hike up the mountain

In Bergen our hotel Moxy, was very new.

Our Bergen breakfast room had a great view of the water. Affiliated with the Marriott, the furnishings were arranged exactly like rooms at the Holiday Inn Express or many other American motel rooms.
Statue on the waterfront near hour hotel

Bergen old town is full of tourist and lots of shops & cute cafes.

Our favorite sight was the reconstructed hall in the fortress. Also, after a heavy rain the sun decided to appear so walking around the grounds of the once fortress was very nice.

Best reconstructed Middle Ages Hall

Lillehammer

We had 2 nights but just one day in Lillehammer, lucky for us, we spent a few hours here in late March in 2019. The town was full of sun, mud & melting snow our previous visit. This time Lillehammer was cool, cloudy and sometimes raining, but a very bright green.

Evening Walk Lillehammer

We spent most of our day in the Open Air museum, Maihaugen. We weren’t expecting much.  We had a guided tour of the historic buildings. We were most interested in the school house because Dennis thinks his grandfather or great-grandfather might have been a school teacher in Norway.

Our guide played teacher. She lined us up, inspected our fingernails, and made us do some easy calisthenics before we could enter our classroom. In class she tested us on the Norwegian alphabet. We all failed.

Inside the Schoolhouse

The school master lived in an austere room attached to the one room schoolhouse. That living situation seemed like a good reason to emigrate to America

We climbed around summer farms and winter farms and learned about Norwegian farm social hierarchy. I never knew the dairy maid was a high status position; then I never gave much thought to dairy maids. 

We didn’t t imagine we would spend hours more of our morning touring sample houses of the 20th century from 1915 to 2001. There was a Norwegian home for each decade. The homes were brought to the museum to show typical features of Norwegian homes of each decade. The exceptions were the 2001 “home of the future” designed by architects of the time to show what the future might look like. Norwegian Queen Sonja’s 1930’s home was furnished just as her upper-middle class family had lived in it during her childhood.

Some of our fascination with the decades of homes was nostalgia, remembering features and furnishings of our grandmothers or our youth. We were surprised to see that Norwegians were building prefab houses as early as the 1920’s, and 30s as well as after WWII to meet housing shortages.

There was also a large indoor museum at Maihaugen. We we spent quite a bit of time inside the museum looking at all sorts of things ancient sleighs, a collection of toys. Sigred Undset’s (author of Kristin Lavransdautter) childhood bedoom.

In the evening we went for a short hike around Lillehammer.

Towards the end of hike it started to rain. We ducked into a restaurant on a side street. It looked like local people going in since the entrance wasn’t at all obvious to us. No English menu posted outside but to our relief two words from us and we were given an English menu. We were tired, hungry, and getting wet so it was all good.

We were up the next morning and after breakfast on a bus headed to Sweden