Monthly Archives: September 2026

On Our Own in Helsinki

While Dennis slept and coughed our first morning in Helsinki, I walked to the Helsinki Cathedral (Lutheran). I walked around the tourist area near the docks and had a chance to shop; Dennis doesn’t shop. I only bought 1 thing; it’s SO EXPENSIVE!

Strobe Talbott should have taken his Olive Tree home

In the afternoon Dennis made it up and out to explore the greenhouses, gardens and paths of the University of Helsinki’s Botanic Garden next to our hotel. Aside from the flying saucer on the lawn, the gardens and greenhouses seem old and traditional. The grounds are currently being renovated.

I admit I know nothing about growing olive trees (Oleo europaea) I’ve been personally responsible for the deaths of a number of houseplants. It looks to my unprofessional eyes like isn’t flourishing. Perhaps it’s being under or over watered by university students who never heard of Talbott, Papandreo or the war in Kosovo. I’m wondering if Strobe Talbott should have taken this tree home.

Museum of Architecture and Design

Sunday we walked to the Museum of Architecture and Design. We walked around the block looking for the modern building we expected for a museum of Finnish architecture. Finally we realized we were there.

I wonder how many forts we have been to in our lifetime. Lots, Michigan, North Dakota, Florida, Texas “Remember the Alamo!” Never was there a harder one to spell. Suomenlinna on  Sveaborg. It’s a World Heritage site and an island.

An awfully complicated story: 1748 built by Sweden, 1808 taken by Russia, 1918 owned by Finland

We took the 15 minute ferry ride and walked around. It was the most beautiful sunny day we’ve had in Finland.

It must have been the coffee! After our short ferry ride back to the Helsinki waterfront we managed to find the stop for a Rick Steve’s suggested self-guided tram tour. Lucky us! It poured down rain while we were in the tram. Apparently it poured down rain while we were on the tram. We ate an early dinner at Zetor  https://www.raflaamo.fi/fi/ravintola/helsinki/zetor  a restaurant Grundela took our group to last week. On the weekend It’s jammed full of Finns doing line dancing dressed like Texans. Very quiet Monday 5pm.

Dennis can’t hear. I have a very sore throat and we both have the kind of cough I would expect to hear from a tuberculosis patient.

Sought out the neighborhood Apteeki after our early dinner. She greeted me at the door in English and asked what I needed. I got throat lozenges & strong cough syrup. Unfortunately, I managed to lose the plastic cup she gave me to measure the syrup. Took me forever to translate the Swedish/Finnish dose directions and then convert from milliliters 😄. Hope I’m close.

Bergen and Lillehammer in brief

Bergen is beautiful and very busy when it isn’t raining. Our guide Gundega promised it would rain in Bergen and promise kept. It was rainy about half the time we were there. Our first morning we looked around the old town in the sunshine but when it was our time to take the funicular up to Mt. Floyen it looked like this.

In spite of the fog most of our group followed Gundega on a hike up the mountain

In Bergen our hotel Moxy, was very new.

Our Bergen breakfast room had a great view of the water. Affiliated with the Marriott, the furnishings were arranged exactly like rooms at the Holiday Inn Express or many other American motel rooms.
Statue on the waterfront near hour hotel

Bergen old town is full of tourist and lots of shops & cute cafes.

Our favorite sight was the reconstructed hall in the fortress. Also, after a heavy rain the sun decided to appear so walking around the grounds of the once fortress was very nice.

Best reconstructed Middle Ages Hall

Lillehammer

We had 2 nights but just one day in Lillehammer, lucky for us, we spent a few hours here in late March in 2019. The town was full of sun, mud & melting snow our previous visit. This time Lillehammer was cool, cloudy and sometimes raining, but a very bright green.

Evening Walk Lillehammer

We spent most of our day in the Open Air museum, Maihaugen. We weren’t expecting much.  We had a guided tour of the historic buildings. We were most interested in the school house because Dennis thinks his grandfather or great-grandfather might have been a school teacher in Norway.

Our guide played teacher. She lined us up, inspected our fingernails, and made us do some easy calisthenics before we could enter our classroom. In class she tested us on the Norwegian alphabet. We all failed.

Inside the Schoolhouse

The school master lived in an austere room attached to the one room schoolhouse. That living situation seemed like a good reason to emigrate to America

We climbed around summer farms and winter farms and learned about Norwegian farm social hierarchy. I never knew the dairy maid was a high status position; then I never gave much thought to dairy maids. 

We didn’t imagine we would spend hours more of our morning touring sample houses of the 20th century from 1915 to 2001. There was a Norwegian home for each decade. The exceptions were the 2001 “home of the future” designed by architects of the time to show what the future might look like. Norwegian Queen Sonja’s 1930’s home was furnished just as her upper-middle class family had lived in it during her childhood.

Some of our fascination with the decades of homes was nostalgia, remembering features and furnishings of our grandmothers or our youth. We were surprised to see that Norwegians were building prefab houses as early as the 1920’s, and 30s as well as after WWII to meet housing shortages.

There was also a large indoor museum at Maihaugen. We we spent quite a bit of time inside the museum looking at all sorts of things ancient sleighs, a collection of toys. Sigred Undset’s (author of Kristin Lavransdautter) childhood bedoom.

In the evening we went for a short hike around Lillehammer.

Towards the end of hike it started to rain. We ducked into a restaurant on a side street. It looked like local people going in since the entrance wasn’t at all obvious to us. No English menu posted outside but to our relief two words from us and we were given an English menu. We were tired, hungry, and getting wet so it was all good.

We were up the next morning and after breakfast on a bus headed to Sweden

Tour ended in Helsinki Finland

Lots of rain and contrasting architecture. Buildings rebuilt after WWII in a classic style others very modern.

Our first day in Helsinki was the last day of our Intrepid tour. We stayed an extra 4 days in Helsinki.

Gundega walked us around the city as the weather alternated between drizzle and pouring rain.

Helsinki is known for it’s post-war modern architecture but they did some rebuilding in the old style too.

Helsinki Cathedral (Lutheran)
Erottaja Square (point zero Helsinki)

Went to the Helsinki Architecture & Design Museum today and we made a second trip to the Oodi (world famous) public library.

Recycled scraps made into “Craft Punk clothing at the Museum of Architecture & Design. There was a rack of redesigned recycled clothing to borrow at the Oodi.

Having spent most of our day in the Architecture and Design Museum learning about a children’s character named Moomin, Craft Punk clothing, and the Aalto philosophy of tuberculosis hospital design, my head was exploding!

Oodi, most popular library I’ve ever been to

On a rainy Friday afternoon it was really busy and sunny Sunday it was even busier.

I counted 24 baby buggies/strollers parked on the 3rd floor so some kids & adults were actually near books. 😉

I couldn’t manage to find which of the streets with 18 letter names in both Finnish and Swedish and are NEVER at right angles would get us home. Thank goodness for Dennis!!

Gudvangen & Flam

We arrived by public bus in Gudvangen about 7pm. Dennis and I were assigned cabin # 1 with Gary a retired Saskatchewan bachelor farmer. This worked out really well. We really enjoyed having a cabin mate.

Assigned the party cabin

We were each handed a pile of sheets & 1 towel. Not only did D. and I struggle getting our 2 duvet covers and 2 half sheets on 1 bed, we were hosting 9 for dinner.

Our guide Gundega had everything figured out. As some people were coming in and asking for bowls or cooking utensils others were arriving with cooked food. Others demanding space in our small oven. It all worked out and by 8pm we were all enjoying eating our dinner together.

We met the next morning we were up early for our boat trip up the fjord to the town of Flam. Also on our boat was an Asian tour group. The Asians had a bag full of costumes. The women really enjoyed putting on fancy dresses and posing for pictures in on the prow of the boat. The men preferred wearing the pirate hats.

Flam is a very touristy town. After warming up with some coffee most of us chose to go hiking. The HUGE cruise ship docked in Flam was great for business but ruined close-up pictures of the fjord. We hiked above town for a better view.

On one of the most rigerous hikes I’ve been on lately we walked up 500+ uneven stone steps for a better view of a waterfall.

After our hike, we ate lunch then Dennis & I took a bus back to Gudvangen while the rest of our group took a scenic train ride.

Great spot for a picnic near the bus stop & ferry landing in Gudvangen.

Family picnic on the fjord

We decided to visit a Viking village

Viking Village

We bought our ticket just a few minutes before the sparsely attended tour started.

Viking Chief

Beautiful walk from the Viking Village back to our cabins.

We were lucky to have such a beautiful day. The following morning it was raining as we waited for the bus to Lillyhammer.

Last Day in Oslo

Started the day with an orientation tour with our Latvian guide Gundega. There were only 4 of us on the tour. We refreshed our memory & saw some things we hadn’t seen before.

Swedish King Christian points to where to build the new city after a fire or alternative interpretation pushed the little people down.

Norwegian King Harald passed away last week. Flags are at half staff and a LONG line of mourners  extends at least a quarter of a mile down the hill from the palace for the 3rd day. A great variety of people waiting to pay their respects to the king. We saw men in nicely tailored black suits and others in shorts and t-shirts. Some were climbing the hill to add to the piles of flowers on the Palace lawn.

Monday, still line at least 1/4 mi. to pay respects to King Harald

We spent the entire afternoon in the National Museum, It’s huge and covers both The history of Western art and the history of Norwegian art.

We had fish soup by the docks. Great people watching on a Sunday. We walked home through the fort.

Norwegian Parliament

Oslo, Norway

Arrived exhausted yesterday after long flights: Spokane to Seattle to Amsterdam to Oslo. Spent most of our day at the new Edvard Munch museum We both have long had an interest in Munch. Hope that’s not too strange. Years ago we traveled to NYC for Spring break because MOMA had a special Munch exhibition.

New Edvard Munch Museum

We didn’t wait our turn to get a close view of the painting The Scream. There were other renderings including a woodcut print which I think I like better than the color version.

Crowd in front of one rendering of The Scream.

The new museum is beautiful and  incorporates some interactive activities for adults and children. After 4 hours we were satisfied we’d seen enough

View of Oslo Opera House from the 12th floor of the Munch museum

On the walk back to our hotel I made Dennis climb the Opera House roof. We climbed this roof in 2019 with rain and sleet blowing in our faces. I couldn’t Believe Dennis didn’t want to go up in better weather.