Tag Archives: Budapest

Just a few more Hungarian Things

No Site left Unseen

I don’t think I mentioned visiting Esztergom Basilica on our road trip with Szusza. Pictures don’t capture that this is the 3rd biggest church in Europe. On any adventure abroad there is always something you wanted to see that’s being reconstructed. The inside was disappointing.

I bought tickets for us all to climb to the top of the tower. Dennis & Szusza indulged me. Neither was at all enthused. Think of climbing to the top of the Space Needle or the Empire State Building. What the tower lacks in height the small round stairs more than makes up for in claustrophobia.

The stairs get and narrower & the ceiling lower as you climb

We worried about Dennis’s head

Danube Bend & Bridge to Slovakia

After our climb Szusza drove across the bridge to Slovakia where we had our best Hungarian meal. The restaurant looked questionable as it was in a small slightly grimy building and called Casablanca. I guess because it was once painted pink??

Heroes Square Remodel

The newly designed and very interactive House of Music and the Ethnographic Museum which we walked on top of were a nice  surprise. Part of the Liget Project which Zsuzsa tells us when proposed quite controversial. So far it look good and is quite popular. We had to wait almost 2 hours for our turn to see the House of Music permanent exhibit.

Walking towards the Ethnography Museum
Walking on the Ethnography Museum

The Agriculture Building is still a castle. There was a long line of families waiting to enter. I wondered what the attraction was. Was it the castle like building or something farm related? Later Zsuzsa told me all the park museums have educational exhibits with interactive features that interest interest children. Part of our Budapest visit coincided with a Fall Break for Hungarian schools.

Agriculture Building in Heros Square

Exploring the Agricultural Building is something for next trip. I actually remember that in 2008 the building was hosting an international flower show. The ticket for admission was so $$ expensive so we opted not to go.

I am relieved that Trump canceled his trip to Budapest. I’m sure Victor Orban would have made sure Trump visited Budapest’s acre of monuments on Heroes Square. Trump would have been inspired to add a few ancient horsemen or something worse on our Capital Mall.

Tourists run amok

I thought these young people must be waiting for a rock star. We couldn’t believe the lines of tourist waiting to buy a chimney or funnel cake. In my opinion there are far better Hungarian desserts. Rick Steves and other guide books tell visitors this is something they must eat.

Line for Funnel or Chimney Cake

Finding our way around Budapest

A transportation pass for trams, the underground Metro and buses was $17 for 15 days. When I was here 18 years ago there was a transit strike. The system was losing money. I paid $35 for my first monthly pass but $50 later. Something is fixed. The trams & subway cars are new too.

Finding our way around Budapest was not hard. It took us a couple of day to master where the various trams that came by went. The metros were easy except I kept confusing the numbers M2 took us home in Vienna but not in Budapest.

Our Flat in Buda

We loved our very modern Airbnb. We were in a quiet neighborhood in Buda convenient to the tram line. The price was right. Our only difficulties were which button to push to get the stove to heat and how to get the remote control blinds up once you have them down.

Our Airbnb apartment building. We were on the 3rd floor which in Hungary it the 4th floor.

Dennis tried to take a picture of the kitchen but it wouldn’t fit in 1 shot.

We had a big kitchen table, a huge coffee maker & the smallest dishwasher you ever saw.

We had the traditional 2 bathrooms. One with a toilet and sink, the other with a shower, sink, and washing machine.

This clothes washer is supposed to both wash & dry. That didn’t happen so I spread the clothes out the more traditional way in front of our sunny window.

We had a great 2 weeks in 2 beautiful cities.

Hungarian Parliament
Vienna Beautiful in spite of construction

A Busy Day in Pest

We tried to avoid going down Vaci Utica the busy pedestrian shopping street

We planned that we would avoid going down the busiest shopping street in Budapest on a Saturday afternoon. Yet somehow there we were wondering where we could get Dennis a hot dog. He was feeling peckish. It turned out to be pretty interesting. You never know what you might see on the crowded street. For instance this giant floating ball. We’ll never know what it means. We did find a small place on a side street that had a hot dog with mustard for Dennis and a cappuccino and croissant for me. Best of all huge clean windows where we could relax and observe the tourists and shoppers.

Fortified we wandered off the crowded streets and found this pocket park. I love stumbling into small quiet places in the city.

Just a couple of blocks from the crowded Street.

We rejoined the crowd to see St Stephen’s Basilica but only from the outside.

On our way to the Parliament we saw 2 tour groups paused in front of this memorial monument in Szabadsag Ter (square).  This is an official WWII memorial created by the Orban government. People have assembled a protesting memorial of pictures and stories of Hungarians who were brutalized by fellow Hungarians during the Nazi era.

3rd Reich eagle attacks St. Gabriel who represents the innocent Hungarian people.
Countering the official line that Hungarians were innocent victims of German aggression.

Tours of parliament must be booked ahead of time but we enjoyed walking around the building.

On the grounds we found an underground museum on the 1956 revolution. Films documenting the repression of the 1956 revolt against the Soviet Union. Some were narrated by survivors. I found it very moving.

Lots of construction in the Parliament area and many statues are being restored

By 5:00 pm we had walked over 7 miles. It was time to find dinner but we discovered that on Saturday night many restaurants outside of the tourist area close early. The carry out pizza place down the street from us had an hour wait. We we’re relieved to find a kabob take-out next to our closest grocery store. With the help of pictures, just enough English, and a positive attitude on the part of the woman taking our order we got dinner.

Budapest Day 1 & 2

Woke up on our very modern Airbnb flat. That is I woke-up when Dennis said “It’s after 10 O’Clock do you want to get up?

Dennis had Google mapped the fastest route to walk to a transit center to buy a 15 day bus/tram pass. We got lost among the “Housing Estates”. The name for socialist era high rises. Not a bad walk because they have trees and the occasional park between building.

After a struggle to find the right tram to take back to our flat we recharged with granola bars and boarded a tram to see the still being built, rebuilt or perhaps even re-imagined, Castle District. Rebuilding the Castle District controversy

As I understand it, all the buildings are a recreation of the originals or better. The rebuilding started with Hauszmann in the 1900’s. The Castle District got shot up again in WWII when the Soviets took Budapest from the Germans.

Some dilapidated structures were razed in the early 70s and are now being rebuilt again looking very grand and new.

DAY 2

Still jet-lagged we didn’t get an early start. Sometime after 10:00am Dennis helped me map out a route to walk to the house where I had a small flat for five months, in 2008. I was teaching English at the Budapest Technical University, BME.

As we stared at the house, which looked a little more run-down than I remembered it, a woman opened a window and asked me something in Hungarian. I assumed she was asking why we were staring at her house. I replied with one of the few phrases I’ve mastered “Nem erte Maygar” I don’t understand Hungarian. I pointed to myself and the upstairs apartment I lived in and informed her in English that I had lived there. She shrugged and I’m sure told me she didn’t get it. She looked relieved as we left. We even exchanged happy good-byes.

27 Bikszadi Utica

In the afternoon we met my friend, teacher and mentor Zsuzsanna. We walked through the BME campus and toured building we taught in as well as the ancient original campus building.

Zsuzsa helped us find the bus up Gellert Hill. We all expected to see the beautiful view from Citadella a former military outlook. However access to the site was completely restricted by a remodeling project. It hasn’t taken us long to understand how much Victor Orban loves remodeling and rebuilding projects. This one is controversial because they have added a new religious element, a cross,to the former military site.

We were all disappointed because the viewpoint was blocked but Zsuzsa guided us downhill to the Garden of Philosophers which had a nice view of autumn color and less people.

Saints names in Hungarian – a bit of a challenge
Dennis and the saints
Dennis and Zsuzsa consult

We found a very good Hungarian restaurant in our neighborhood. It was almost 9pm by the time we got back to our flat and collapsed. Quite a full day.