AMAZONIA

Puerto Maldonado: pop. 85,024, Altitude 600 ft. TO Cayman Lodge

Seven of our original Lima group of 9 flew from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado. This included Jon and Chelsea who hiked the Quarry Trail with Kris and two Australian women. We were met at the airport by a guide, Michael who drove us to an office/warehouse. There we unpacked our suitcases and stuffed our light weight clothes into small duffle bags for our 2 night stay. We had what seemed like a long bumpy drive to Inferno boat landing. There we boarded what our itinerary called a “motorized canoe.” Michael said we would have have a slow trip up the Tambopata River. Michael hoped we would have frequent stops for animal and bird sightings.

I was surprised. Local kids were jumping off the dock into the muddy river. This river is home to piranhas and caymans or caimans. Michael said there was little danger because the piranhas are small and are only attracted to blood and open wounds. The caymans are usually shy. Later, we noticed our guide Ronlon had several large scars on one arm. Someone asked Ronlon about his disfigured arm. Ronlon explained that he had an argument with a determined cayman over a fish. “The cayman refused to let go of the fish and so did I.” So caymans are not shy where food is concerned.

We saw caymen, macaws and other birds and a red monkey along the way. All were difficult to photograph. Best were the capybaras with the black birds eating the insects on their backs. On the boat we were each given our high energy sack lunch. The “sack” is compostable. I’m not sure what the goop we were eating was but it was tasty.

It must have been the heat but the stairs up to the lodge seemed exhausting.

We were assigned our rooms and the group was provided a sealed plastic bin. The bin was to store any snacks, chips, or power bars. We were warned that our room would be invested by small bugs after our sugar or salty snacks at night. Cell phones could be charged only from 5pm – 9pm. We had a single light in our room and it was in the bathroom. Except for the relentless heat, I loved our little eco-lodge duplex in the in the jungle. However, Caymen Lodge is not a luxury resort.

After a delicious rice, pork and tomato dinner with clove soup for desert, we all got into the motorized canoe to look for caymans along the riverbank. It was not a very successful trip. Upon our return our guide Ronlon told us we had the option of going for a morning hike to a lake to see wildlife. Sounded great! Then he told us our boat would depart at 4:20am. We could have our morning coffee if we were up and dressed by and ready to go by 4:00. Our breakfast would be another bagged surprise to take with us.

At 4:20 eight of us boarded the boat with 2 guides to motor up the river in complete darkness. Though I’m not a morning person this might be my favorite activity of our Peru trip. Up the river we disembarked at a nature reserve. We hiked on a jungle path and saw monkeys and signs of other animals that we couldn’t see: ant eaters and very large snakes. When we reached a lake we all got on a raft. Our guide paddled out a short distance from the shore. We watched the sun come up and had a great view of animals and birds both on land and swimming just off the shore.

From our raft we saw quite a show, River Otters playing, flocks of birds, Red Howler Monkeys, little Squirrel Monkeys, and a few Capuchin Monkeys chased each other through the trees. The otters, the monkeys and most of the birds moved way too fast to photograph. We had a spotting scope on board to take pictures of anything that stood still.

We returned to the lodge for lunch. It was way too HOT to do anything but rest in the shade. There are no fans but this screened pavilion with chairs and hammocks is nearer to the river. Kris & I hoped for at least a little breeze.

At 4:00 pm it was cool enough for all 9 of us guests to meet with our 2 guides. We were ready for a hike in the jungle that surrounded the lodge. Our guides made jokes about who got to carry the machete but they did carry one. You never know, it really is a jungle out there.

Two young German women had been added to our original group of 7. Jon was the out going one who started asking them questions on our morning hike. We learned that their English was pretty good. Later I noticed that our no. 2 guide Michael always took the ladies aside and instructed them in German. One of the women had a real camera and was specifically interested in photography.

Our afternoon hike was more about plants than animals. We did see Tamarind and Red Howler monkeys. Our guides pointed out giant cilantro, garlic bark, a fire ant nest, and turmeric root. We ended the hike at a “plantation” above our lodge. Here we saw an example of slash and burn farming. We were told that the slash would be burned later. Our visit in October was in the dry season and during a drought. We were of course horrified but Ronlon said this is how the native people are able to make a living. They grow the foods we eat at the lodge.

After we returned we had a beer on the deck overlooking the river and watched the sunset. It seemed the coolest place but that’s all relative. Even after dark it’s hot. (Daily highs were 97-100 lows in the 70’s and ALWAYS humid)

After dark we all got in long sleeved clothes with flashlight and went for a night hike to see what comes out in the dark.

It had been a long day and we had to get up early again so we went right to bed. Dennis said he was too tired to put his mosquito netting on. I had to tuck him in. I asked Ronlon the next morning if I was right to nag Dennis into using his mosquito net. “He would have been attacked by many small bugs in the night.” I did a good deed.

The next morning we headed up the Tambopata river to Puerto Maldonado, repacked our suitcases and the 7 of us flew back to Lima.

I was really glad we added the Amazonia trip to our Peru itinerary. It was a chance to relax after the go-go go trying to see everything in Cusco and Lima. The incredible mid-day heat forced us to slowed the pace. I especially enjoyed our jungle hikes, so different from our dry climate at home. As we left, I was sad our jungle experience was coming to an end. However, we’d explored the jungle and the river all times of the day and night. I didn’t have any nagging feeling there were things we’d missed seeing or doing there.

Quite a change going back to Lima.

It was especially nice to have Ari meet us at the airport with the mini-bus.

Peru, Lima webpage covers our last day in Lima.

Our last night in Lima, Kris, Dennis & I found a very small place near our hotel with a sign that seemed to indicate it was pizza restaurant. Seven pm is early for dinner in Lima. We were a little hesitant to enter what looked like just a bar. All we could see was 3 men sitting at the bar, no menu posted, & no tables. As soon as we hesitantly stepped in all 3 guys jumped up. They were all were waiters. Would they understand are order? One had gone to school in Chicago so no problem. They were pleased when we all ordered local drinks to celebrate our successful trip.

Last day in Lima continued at the end of Peru page. https://janlw.com/