Last night Hell’s Canyon. (again)

Just to prove we are tough we hiked over 5 miles and back up Hell’s Canyon.  Some discussion about whether the name refers to the temperature.  We started with an overcast sky at 83 degrees about 1pm and returned about 5pm with the sky sunny and the thermometer indicating it was 102 degrees.  Dennis said he had the best beer he ever had in the tiny piece of shade we found.  I think it was 7:30pm before we could even think of cooking dinner or setting up our tent,  Due to the fantastic weather we had the walk-in campground to ourselves. 🙂   I jumped in the Snake River right after our hike, water is a little chilly, but I was comfortable the rest of the night.

We fled our comfy campsite by 9:30 am due to excessive head.

Trail Side Etiquette

Every year we go cross-country skiing on one of the winter 3 day weekends. Last year I observed trends in ski clothing. Fleece is OUT, wool is WAY OUT, and shiny, stretchy, astro-bright artificial fiber outfits are de rigueur cross-country wear, at least on Mt. Spokane.

Last weekend skiing the Lolo pass, which straddles the Idaho-Montana border I was aware that I was likely to make several woolly sightings. What surprised me was rude anarchist (devil may care) skiers. This is a sport where everyone shares two little tracks in the snow. If you are not skiing, you should step out of the track. I had to detour around several skiers addressing wardrobe malfunctions while stopped in the middle to the track. I might add I’m not generally skiing at some supersonic speed that you wouldn’t see me coming. The exception is when I’m going downhill. Then I snow plow out of control from side to side down the trail and you really don’t want to be in my way.

The “I’ve Never Seen this Before & Please NO MORE!” prize goes to a man with a puppy (numerous no dog signs posted) stopped in the middle of track, apparently changing his clothes. Looking back, after skiing around the guy, I commented to my husband that I had observed that the man was sporting Hanes gray cotton briefs identical to those I’d recently purchased for him. My husband felt I was paying way too much attention to other men’s underwear on Valentines, end of story.  PICTURE IS NOT LOLO PASS.  This is Patee Canyon on the outskirts of Missoula.  There is just barely enough snow to ski.

Anonymous historian

Anonymous historian

As I put the pictures together for my presentations it is great to remember all the wonderful things we saw and all my friends in the BUTE Modern Langage Department. 

Slide Shows 

Surviving and Surviving in Budapest
Battle of the Reading Rooms

Vienna

Saturday 5-17-08  We took the early morning train to Vienna.  We arrived arrived 11am found our pension, only getting lost a few times.  I had to drag my suitcase over large cobblestones.  We began touring Vienna about 12:30pm. 

Our Pension in Vienna

Our Pension in Vienna

Walking tour around Der Ringstrasse looking for tourist information.  There were some frayed tempers as everyone was tired and we didn’t seem to have a clear plan for our tour.

Secession Museum and saw the Klimt Beethoven

Secession

Secession

 We walked to the Church  of St. Charles Borromeo (Karlsplatz) which was spectacular as we rode up a lift and walked up some shaky stairs to the top of the dome. 

We walked through the city park (Stadtpark) with its statues and  a pond and went to St Stephens church which seemed less impressive after the Charles.  We were able to sneak in just before they closed for mass.

About 7pm we settled in the for real schnitzel and gelato in a pedestrian area near St. Stephens. 

Sunday 5-18-2008 After a hardy breakfast at the pension we walked up Rathhausplatz to the townhall and past the Parliament. 

Next we walked to the  Kunsthistoriches Museum where we saw a staggering number of paintings the most memorable of which were the Velazquez and the Bruegels.  After lunch at the museum we went to the Belvedere Palace and more paintings.  The palace and its grounds were more the attraction here.  The Schiele and Klimt’s were highlights here along with some gothic religious sculptures. 

For dinner we took the tram to Spittleburg quarter.  The transportation system in Vienna is really great.

Monday 5-19-2008 Arrived as early as possible for  a tour of the Hofburg castle.  The unexpected highlight for me was the table service collection.  The audiotour was excellent and the table services were spectacular.  Every new prince or princess seemed to need a new one commissioned that was more spectacular than the previous.  The Sisi portion was interesting about a reclusive Hapsburg queen but a bit much.  Next we toured the royal apartments seemed rather pedestrian compared to Verasailles or other more richly decorated rooms even compared to the Belevedere.  After lunch nearby, pizza and a tomatoless minestrone soup, we went and saw the jewels, robes and crowns in the Vienna Treasury where we learned more about the history of the different Habsburg kings and princes.  The audio tour was also interesting here.  Afterwards we had a nice walk along the Ringstrasse including the Danube and dinner near our Pension at a café, fried calamari and potato salad. It was raining on and off mostly ON all day so it was a bit cold and depressing.  We didn’t get to the Freud apartment but again the cold clammy weather left tempers frayed and we were in need of family therapy.  I think sugar delivered in the Viennese tradition via a slice of sacher torte after dinner improved everything.

Tuesday 5-20-2008  We then went to the Butterfly house and saw some tropical butterflies and to the Leopold museum where we focused again on Klimt and Schiele.  We had lunch at the museum and rushed to catch the 2pm train and returned to Budapest and a dinner at home. 

Butterfly house

Butterfly house

Pictures of Vienna

Final Review

Margaret IslandWe are home now and our trip has come to an end. I will be editing and linking photos from Croatia and Vienna that I didn’t have time to include.

Dennis says his favorite trip was our trip to Felsorakos He is ready to go back to Croatia and see all the places we didn’t have time to explore. Where Budapest is concerned his favorite thing was Margaret Island, the island city park that sits in the middle of the Danube. “Hikes, ancient ruins, river views and beer, how can you beat that?” Dennis did think they could improve the food available. The hot dogs and pizza weren’t that great and we couldn’t find gelato there.

Leigh’s favorite thing in Budapest was the zoo. She especially liked the Elephant House. I’m sure her favorite trip was Croatia but I will ask.

My favorite place in Budapest was the Castle in Buda especially the less traveled north side. The think I am missing the most is being able to walk in Pest and find narrow streets with interesting 19th century building and the occassional odd ter (square) with a statue or a fountain or both. As I walked up to Rosaurers I missed the variety of postage stamp size yards in my neighborhood. Instead of long expanses with lawns and trees on house would have a mini-vinyard and a vegetable garden, another was all planted in flowers, then a lawn with flower pots or a mini-orchard. Of course there were the occassional weedy neglected yards, the ugly graffitied walls and some badly neglected housing estates but the urban area provided so much variety I never got tired of exploring.

On returning our single story building and wide lawns seem like so much unnecessary space.  I can’t hold the shovel anymore because I have done too much weeding the last two days.  I find I really miss the mass transit whisking me to the big city any area with no effort on my part. Of course I am glad to get back to hiking around “Near Nature Near Perfect” Spokane.

There were too many possible illustrations so I compiled a favorites slide show. These aren’t always the best pictures but they illustrate some beautiful, typical or just plain quirky things in Budapest. It also includes the beautiful Croatia. http://picasaweb.google.com/Janwingen/Favorites

Final Complications

My last official act was to close out my university bank account. I would have just withdrawn my balance and let it go but Zsuzsa insisted that I needed to close my account as part of my check-out from the university. My bank is on the university campus and all university staff have accounts where salaries are directly deposited and bank statements are sent to college e-mail.

Zsuzsa did the translation and I could tell right away things weren’t going as planned. Bank managers were called both in person and on the phone. It seems that you can’t close your account if it has been active in the last 30 days. Even if I hadn’t been withdrawing money like crazy while traveling with Leigh & Dennis my last pay check was deposited in June.

The solution was for me to authorize Zsuzsa to close my account. In a truly Hungarian manner a handwritten document was composed on the spot with Zsuzsa and the bank clerk struggling over the correct wording. Hungarian really is a difficult language even for Hungarians. The document included my birthday, passport number, Zsuzsa’s birthday and her bank account number and of course I have no idea what else. The handwritten document was xeroxed and I signed 2 or 3 copies of the document each one was signed twice.

I’m not the only exchange faculty at the university and it seemed so odd that they didn’t dive in to the file drawer and pull out the correct fill in the blank form. Almost as quaint as when the bank clerk used pen and paper rather than a calculator for my final balance.

After deactivating my debit card the bank clerk calculated all the fees I will incur for maintaining the account I am not allowed to close. It took almost two hours but I was given my cash and I bid farewell to Hungarian bureaucracy.

Rejika, Croatia

Working town We met a Texan on the train to Krakow who asked us why we went to Croatia. Number one reason was Leigh had friends in Rijeka. Kevin, Kristy and their 3 kids(formerly of Missoula) are with Campus Crusade for Christ and have been in Rijeka for almost a year. When Kevin offered to meet with us and give us a little orientation I was expecting a guy in a suit and skinny tie instead he was wearing shorts and a backpack. Kevin walked us to the “Centre” and gave us great directions for finding our way to the interesting parts of the town.

Rijeka (270,000 pop.) was actually Italian into the 20th century. There was some dispute after WWI and the Allies refused to give it back to Italy. Even earlier the Hungarians claimed it as their access to the Adriatic so it is quite a popular place. Currently it looks like a working port and is much more industrialized the typical Croatian coastal towns. Rijeka has pedestrian malls with LOTS of outdoor cafes and bars, also churches and a castle.

Our biggest regret is not getting a picture of Kevin, Kristy and their kids AND ALSO trying to go around the block when we saw the sign for a hotel. In the U.S. when you see a sign to turn, you usually drive at least 15 yards before you turn. In Europe we have learned turnà means NOW!. It took us about 45 minutes and a trip through an endless parking lot and then out of town to go around the block.

When we finally got to the hotel it had a great view of town, a reasonable price and most important they told Dennis the place he was parked in front of the hotel was just fine. We didn’t have to drive one meter further. We are very glad Leigh had friends in Rijeka otherwise we would never have taken this slight detour in our travels and we would have missed meeting these really nice people and the climb hundreds of stairs to Trsat Castle and some great views.  Slide show

Brasov/Buda Hills

There is no way I will get my pictures all done before I come home. I have edited the Brasov pictures and added some info to Krakow.

I think Brasov, Romania and Rijeka, Croatia really were the best examples of towns with a lot of LOCAL café life. I suppose it probably has something to do with local living conditions. If you live in a hot stuffy apartment well obviously…. Brasov seemed to have a well developed social life as exemplified by the people playing chess, backgammon and checkers in the park and just as many locals giving advice to the players.  Brasov had AT LEAST 30 outdoor bars or cafes downtown and the metropolitan population is about 400,000 that is slightly smaller than Spokane.  Where are our pedestrian malls, squares and cafes?

One other thing we have noticed all over Central and Eastern Europe is the memorials. I think Romania has is typical and then some. Felsorokas had memorials to the 1848 revolution as well as WWI & WWII. We think that Brasov had about five war memorials that saw including a memorial to those who died in the 1989 an upheaval overthrowing Ceasescu. We usually think of the changes as bloodless in most of Eastern Europe.

Buda hills

Today Dennis & I went hiking in the Buda hills. Even at three in the afternoon the birds are chirping loudly. It looked the same as my previous pictures except leaves are on the trees. We only got slightly lost. I am starting the clean-up and packing ordeal.