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Strike Again

     It’s going to be on Friday rather than Monday but we are in for another 3-day weekend thanks to a Friday transport stike. BKV the transportion company has agreed NOT to fire 300 workers but the STRIKE is definitely ON because the union insists it be allowed to set the bus schedule or at least toss out any changes. Unfortunately, it is supposed to rain so it will probably won’t be a good day for a long hike.

Zsuzsa suggested it will be a good day for shopping. This assumes the stores will be open. I guess clerks or storekeepers have cars. According to the newspaper the transportation workers will be making their way to     donate blood. I will NEVER fully understand Hungary but I will check to see if the stores are indeed open.  Donating blood is certainly more productive than picketing.

One important universal principle I understand too well.  A survey of Budapest populace revealed favorite solutions for balancing the BVK budget and ending the deficit were (drum roll)  catching bus  cheaters (estimated 20% occasionally ride the bus for free) and having the Hungarian (Federal) government pay additional subsidies.  Why does this sound SO familiar? 


My Neighborhood

 I’m was having difficulty understanding my neighborhood Ujbuda or Buda District XI on American terms. My immediate neighbors are called “private houses” by Zsuzsa which means I live in a building where the landlords have a large flat on the ground floor and maintain their postage stamp size front and backyards. There are six flats in the building but I am the only tenant. I understand a small apartment on the ground floor is rented by an elderly German man who visits once a year.–> Slide show

The neighboring houses are about the same era and size. All are older brick or stucco houses that appear to have been built in the early 20th century . Most are small scale apartment buildings or houses with two apartments. A very few appear to be single stand-alone homes. Most neighbors meticulously maintain their yards some contain miniature orchards with grape vines, flowers and a few even appear to be growing vegetables.

We are surrounded on all sides by what the Hungarians refer to as “housing estates.” We would call them giant, gray concrete apartment buildings. For a long time I was trying to understand the placement of the “estates” in relation to the houses. It finally occurred to me that we are a fairly orderly grid of small streets and major thoroughfares. The apartment blocks are mainly on all the busy streets and the houses are filler between the major streets. This is a generalization because the apartments sometimes extend back several in a row into a small street or sprout up unexpectedly. I understand most of these housing estates were built between 1967 and 1983. There are still large complexes under construction but they are on a smaller scale and NEVER made of gray concrete. Pink/orange is favored now but I have also seen new ochre and blue buildings. 

I asked Zsuzsa how this pattern of development came to be. She said that in the socialist era there was considered to be a housing shortage so they tore out old areas of the city and built the new ugly concrete housing estates. I’m sure they pack in a lot of people. If people in a neighborhood like mine did not want to leave their family home it was not forced. Houses of aristocracy, lawyers or other “enemies of the state” could be seized but in general they didn’t come in and displace a neighborhood if people put up a fuss.

Apparently during this time period many homes and apartments were divided so they could hold more families, although I can’t imagine that my house could ever have been a single home.  

Odbuda (Old Buda) the most ancient part of the city was torn-up and replaced by miles & miles housing estates.  Wounds are still fresh where the destruction of Obuda is concerned.  What was the old city is a couple of blocks of cobblestoned streets and ancient houses.   They did move the Roman ruins to a museum. 

Reminds me a  bit of what we hear has happened in China to make way for the Olympics, but then these houses were probably never considered slums so things are a little different.

The tulips have come and are going and the trees are leafing out and the lilacs are about to bloom so I’m glad I got most of these pictures weeks ago when you could see everything clearly.

 

Strike!

1956 Strike Well strikes aren’t what they used to be, particularly in Budapest. We had a city transit (BKV) and Hungarian railroad strike today. Why would you have a strike and TELL everyone it was going to be over at 1pm? I asked one of the other instructors and she suggested- “They just want to send a message not lose their jobs.” This tactic does seem to put the public on the strikers side. No one seems to mind an excuse for sleeping in a little extra on Monday. The railway strikes are always set for Monday morning too. I bet a Friday afternoon RR strike keeping everyone in town for the weekend would have an entirely different effect.

I walked to work for my class which didn’t start until noon anyway. It is about two miles no hills. My only hardship was that it was raining a little so my feet were quite wet. I didn’t see ANY traffic jams. It was 10am when I left perhaps I missed them.

In spite of all the PR when I reached the university, the maids were cleaning, the snack bar was staffed and I saw at least three of our 15 secretaries made it in. My class consisted of three students. I’m sure several more live on or near campus & thought it would be a good day to skip. They were right.

images.jpg We were discussing world statistics in one of my classes and the comparison of different cultures and their “carbon footprint” or sustainability meant nothing to my students. They didn’t seem aware of the issue that some lifestyles have more environmental impact than others.

Nevertheless, Hungarians are certainly way ahead of us on sustainability even if they don’t know it. Yesterday I was struggling to write on the ONLY white board in one of my classrooms. As I mentioned before, the rest of my classrooms use chalk and wet rags. One student commented, I guess no one is refilling the markers. “What?” “Refill the markers, I used to do it for my school.” Incredible! I never heard that there were anything but throw away dry erase markers.

 

I’m putting this down with heating the water in the kitchen only when you need it, no pilot light on the gas stoves, air drying clothes and charging for plastic bags, all ways Hungarians conserve energy even though they don’t seem to be aware they are also doing a good thing. Sustainability seems to be driven by penuriousness and ignorance that the rest of the world doesn’t live this way. Good thing for us I guess. wash-on-sunday.jpg

I don’t think it is environmental awareness because given the choice they would all like to drive to work and do so if they can.

 


Friday Adventure to the Lake

lake-001.jpg A special treat Friday, Zsuzsa called me and asked if I would like to go out to her open her lake place in the afternoon. It was a beautiful day and ABSOLUTELY nothing like the problems of opening up the cottage at Walloon. lakeview.jpg

It’s a simpler place just two rooms. Zsuzsa says these “dachas” a were a concession the socialist made to the Hungarians because they were no longer allowed to travel out of their small country. Like Walloon, families built together, Zsuzsa’s Aunt and Mother shared a common wall. sweeping.jpg

She bought some groceries and turned on the water. I don’t think I did anything more helpful than hold the ladder while she climbed down a hole with her special wrench. Neighbor’s House

I strolled around the neighborhood while Zsuzsa puttered around her place. It was great to get out of town. You can’t imagine how long it has been since I saw an empty field. The trip takes less than a hour and there are several picturesque villages on the way.Road at the lake

We stopped by a famous ice cream place and got pastry and coffee on the way back. We also stopped by statue park where they keep all the old communist statues. Unfortunately they were closing so I just got to peak over the fence. I’ll end with Stalin’s boots. They are really MUCH bigger than they look. Stalin’s Boots


Tour Guide (NOT)

From the Castle I told one of the teachers at work that I went with my friends around Budapest and helped them see some of the sights. You were the tour guide? Well I tried and I only pushed Nel out of the metro at the wrong stop once. Actually we only rode the Metro once. There was also that time I got them off the tram two stops too early. … It always happened when I was talking instead of paying attention. I’m sure real guides learn to do both. Zsuzsa does a good job of talking and driving like a European and finding a parking space but then I understand that she was a professional guide for the Russians. She took us to Szentendre a Serbian town which for some reason the socialist left alone

I was glad to get a chance to get back to Buda Castle and I saw a lot of things with Nel and Pat that I hadn’t seen before. It’s also always more fun to go to a museum with other people see if their impressions match yours.

I’m sure if we had just two more days we would have seen it ALL but as it was we did cover the “best of” the major attractions as far as I know. I think our greatest surprise was the Fine Arts Museum (Szepmuveszti Muzeum.) It’s even bigger than it looks and it looks pretty big. We went to a special Medici exhibit that was four rooms and then tried to take in the rest which just wasn’t possible.

medici.jpg

I don’t think I realized I could be lonely until they left. 😦 Well I have a NEW project at the University. I am preparing a talk about the American education system and one about the current U.S. election process. Both are to be presented at 10am Monday and I didn’t find out for sure until this afternoon. I hope to get a PowerPoint together for future lectures. I think I have to give the technician 24 hours notice and I don’t even know what room I’m going to. heroes.jpg

We are strictly a blackboard and chalk operation here. We open the windows for air conditioning which is needed all winter in the southside rooms. We have funny red curtains that we pull in an attempt to keep the sun from shining in our eyes. I’m still learning to pin down my notes so when a breeze picks-up so I don’t end up with lecture notes and homework completely scattered.

Attached is a slideshow of our chilly week. http://picasaweb.google.com/Janwingen/EasterWkend


Hungarian Easter

Mangalica pig We had a great Easter dinner and I am going to be eating ham sandwiches all spring. I don’t think I bagged a Mangalica pig but I thought our grocery store ham was quite good. My food wasn’t wasn’t taken to mass on Saturday to be blessed another Hungarian tradition. Perhaps this special pig will soon be available in Spokane or Seattle. Pat & Nel contributed carrots, potatoes and a

great bottle of Bock Hungarian red wine. Jozsef Bock Villanyi Portugieser 2007

Unfortunately their tour guide let them loose after dinner without making sure they knew which street to go up.

Zsuzsa took us touring Monday so we could avoid being sprinkled with cheap cologne. On Easter Monday which is an official holiday here, boys traditionally sprinkled the girls and were rewarded with gifts of decorated red eggs and shot of pa’linka a fruit brandy. As with many traditions this has apparently degenerated into an excuse to drink. Several people asked me if Hungarian celebrate St. Patrick’s day and the answer is NO but Hungarians do have an Easter Monday drinking tradition.

Pat and Nel


Pat and Nel are here :)

nelpatdanube.jpg Nel Hellenberg and Pat Nasburg have arrived. What a treat! Not only can I speak English as much and as fast as I’d like but they treated me to a great meal. I had fish soup that was NOT overly salty and a REAL salad with lettuce also my first glass of red wine since I’ve been here. Of course similar meals for the three of us added up to almost $100. Talk about sticker shock. I’ve been living like a Hungarian here and the average Hungarian makes something like $650.00 a month. It’s clear prices in the tourist district are out of line. Still the food was much better than I’m used to. Vorosmarty Ter

Vorosmarty Ter. the big square was crowded with people selling crafts and cooking great looking stuff on the street. The only problem was it was about 39 degrees F and a cold wind was blowing. I think the people sitting out in the street eating were wrapped in down coats or more acclimatized than we are. Wish I had taken a picture maybe I can find some to steal.Pat & Gellert Hill

Today we climbed Gellert Hill and saw the Liberation Monument. Those two are real troopers. We did a little menu shopping this time so the damage wasn’t so bad and the food was still great. We bought carrots and potatoes at the Central Market.  I’m cooking for dinner on Easter.  Central Market